Eating Biriyani With My Hand – It Made Me Truly Indian: California Burrito Founder

Eating Biriyani With My Hand – It Made Me Truly Indian: California Burrito Founder

For those who have strolled through the food court of malls in India—whether in Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad or Delhi NCR—California Burrito is a familiar and much-loved household name. Not many know the interesting story behind its founding, however. Truly reflective of the new global culture, California Burrito is a Mexican fast-casual chain that was founded by Americans—in Bangalore! Bertrand Mueller, co-founder of California Burrito along with Dharam Khalsa and Gaelan Draper, is a dynamic individual who has forged a bond between farmers, restaurants and customers that cemented the brand’s place in Indian urban cuisine. He came to India, studied in Jaipur, and ended up falling in love with the country. A multi-talented individual, he is also a composer and co-wrote the song Twice Is Too Much, featured in the major motion picture Bandslam, starring industry favourites like David Bowie and Vanessa Hudgens. Mueller speaks to Center for Soft Power on his journey, from setting up the restaurant chain to his favourite Indian cuisine.

What are the similarities you have found between Indian and Mexican cuisine? Has it been easy finding a market in India for Mexican food?

I'm absolutely passionate about both Indian and Mexican food, so for me, there's always been a natural, exciting overlap! I think there are also some surprising similarities between Indian and Mexican cuisine that make them mutually appealing to those who enjoy bold flavours. Both cuisines incorporate a wide variety of spices and herbs into their dishes, such as cilantro, lime, and chili peppers, resulting in an explosion of flavours and aromas. Additionally, both cuisines use similar staple ingredients like beans, rice, rotis/tortillas and sales/chutneys to create a hearty and satisfying meal. It's no wonder that people who enjoy one of these cuisines are often fans of the other as well!

Discovering a market hasn't been too challenging. Indians are known for their adventurous palates and willingness to try new and different types of food. With a diverse array of regional cuisines and a long history of culinary experimentation, Indians are no strangers to bold and complex flavours. In fact, many Indians take pride in their love of food and are always eager to explore new tastes and textures.

What inspired you to start California Burrito in India rather than the US? Was it difficult to integrate into the society during the initial days of the business?

Many people ask me - “why did you come to India?” And the reason is simple: I studied here, appreciated what was happening in the country and I saw tremendous potential for the country. I studied in Jaipur, the pink city - I love Jaipur, I love the people of Rajasthan - it’s a tremendous place and I loved studying there but when I was studying there, I was amazed: no Mexican food? None!  There wasn't a single Mexican place in the entire city. But thinking about it, why would there be? Mexico is very far away! So no one was serving Mexican food. And in the US, Mexican food has become extremely popular–but not just popular with Americans, it's incredibly popular with - guess who - Indians! So I thought, why not bring Mexican food to India? So we did. Now, most of my friends thought I was crazy: India? Mexican Food? Restaurants? To prove them wrong, that no I’m not crazy, I got a job at one of the largest Mexican chains in America. I did a lot of research on Indian food trends and wrote a business plan, and then started asking people for money to invest. Money came in slowly - most people we asked didn’t feel 22-year old Americans would do very well starting a food business in India. But we moved to India, set up a Tumblr blog, started posting pictures of us looking at kitchen equipment, testing corn chips, visiting bakeries and inspecting properties. And people were impressed - and then started asking to invest!

I must also note that Karnataka is a very welcoming place - Bangalore is a melting pot city. Some people call it India’s Silicon Valley, I call it “the America of India.” This made starting a business here easier than if it had been in  another city I believe - both from a customer perspective and from a “starting up” perspective.

How is California Burrito different from other chains, MNCs like Taco Bell as well as local restaurants, that sell Mexican food in India? 

As a huge fan of the fast-casual restaurant formats, I've drawn inspiration for California Burrito from several key aspects that make fast-casual dining unique . Firstly, our commitment to serving fresh, high-quality food sets us apart from many Quick Service Restaurants (QSRs). In our restaurant kitchens, we prioritize the use of classic cooking techniques, preparing dishes from scratch to ensure a quality dining experience.

Secondly, we believe in providing our customers with unparalleled freedom to tailor their meals according to their individual preferences and dietary choices. Our customizable menu options empower customers to create a dining experience that aligns perfectly with their taste buds and nutritional requirements.

Thirdly, we are dedicated to bringing genuine Mexican flavors to our dishes, distinguishing us from other restaurants. To achieve this, we've taken a unique approach by growing our own crops, including Hass avocados, tomatillos, chilies, and more. This hands-on approach to sourcing ingredients ensures the authenticity of our Mexican-inspired cuisine, creating a food experience that stands out in the restaurant landscape.

How have you found the connect between farmers and restaurant chains in India as compared to the US? Did you make any changes to the norm when you set up California Burrito that you would want to see become widespread?

Generally the USA has a very developed supply chain and also has low tariffs so you can find any ingredients you want. I think that in India, particularly for our cuisine, it is difficult (and sometimes impossible) to find the necessary ingredients. That is why we have  forged relationships with farmers and collaborated with them to cultivate the specialised crops we need for real Mexican flavours. We have found a range of professional farming partners who work on contract with us. Something we like about working directly with farmers is that we are aware of their farming practices when it comes to fertilisers and pesticides. I am a big fan of regenerative agriculture which is a concept I’d like to see get popularised.

India is filled with diversity from state to state, and even city to city. How were your experiences setting up outlets in various parts of India? Do you have a favourite? 

Each city has brought its own unique challenges. When we have first opened in a city, sometimes it has worked overnight, other places it has taken time. Overall, once you start having 5+ stores in a city, customers are familiar with the brand and sales will pick up faster from new stores.

I would have to give some special love to Karnataka since this is where we first opened in. Karnataka has been very loving and welcoming to us!

What's something new that you learned about business and entrepreneurship from India, especially Bangalore (given that the city is known as a start-up hub)?

In India, delivering excellent value to our customers requires diligent effort. The Indian consumer possesses a keen understanding of the value of their purchases, prompting entrepreneurs to think innovatively and push beyond resource limitations to meet ambitious goals. I am continually inspired by the ingenuity of Indian business owners and their creative strategies for business success. These unsung heroes, often entrepreneurs managing small to medium-sized enterprises, exemplify resilience and resourcefulness in navigating the complexities of the market. Indians are very good in business, as the whole world is coming to know!

What do you find is the main reason for California Burrito's huge popularity?

I think that we have been welcomed beautifully in India because we serve freshly cooked food. Indians, having been raised on fresh, home-cooked meals, rightfully resist compromising on fresh food standards when dining out. I grew up the same way - I enjoyed freshly prepared home food instead of processed fast food options. Freshly cooked food is at the heart of our restaurant concept.

Could you share a few anecdotes in your interactions with Indian farmers and workers?

About six months after we first planted our Avocado plantation, the plants were growing very beautifully. Then one fine day a troop of elephants trampled through and destroyed about 50 of the trees. Luckily we have been grafting additional trees from the existing plants and so we have replenished these! We love our farmers, they are warm and kind individuals taking care of the earth.

What cuisine do you like from India and what are your fondest memories having them?

Even before arriving in India, I loved Indian food. It was my favorite growing up and my mom often made dal and papad. Every region I explore in India boasts unique and incredibly tasty food traditions. Amidst this journey, I've discovered a personal preference for the spice and flavor of Andhra cuisine, making it my absolute favorite.

Whenever I find myself in Hyderabad, the joy of savoring Andhra meals and relishing Hyderabad Biryani with my hand is an experience I cherish. I recall eating a biryani with my hand once in a moving car. I felt at that moment that I have definitely become Indian!